My Sweet Mandalay

by Chris Neil
June 9, 2025
I boarded the Mandalay in 1985, having cruised on big ships only.
Yet here I was for 13 days on a small sailing vessel. I recall asking other passengers how this type cruise compared to the big ships. Several just gave me a knowing smile, saying “you’ll see.”
Indeed. I saw. I reveled. I loved. I knew I would be a repeat passenger. Between ’85 and ’92, I missed only 1 year, always choosing the 13-day sailing on the Mandalay.
The islands were great, especially as I got to know individual islanders over the years, and would go back to visit them. I had favorite restaurants and shops, but increasingly, my focus was “my sweet Mandalay.”

So many memories: Cass or another steward ringing a bell, announcing “breakfast time.” The slap of a wave washing over the porthole in my cabin. The Captain's daily storytime. Getting my first sailor’s braid. The purser's daily board describing location and activities. Gathering things for a beach or for exploring an island. That frequent sound of the launch motor. Lunch on top deck under the blue tarp, or carrying trays of food from the launch to an island picnic site.
Getting to know fellow passengers, as well as talking with the crew, was part of my ship experience. I enjoyed helping the crew in little ways. Yearly, I took over caring for Yup, the ship’s cat. During swizzle time on top deck, I often volunteered refilling the rum swizzles for passengers. Sometimes, I was rewarded with some of the local foods prepared for the crew.
There was a nightly ritual: watching for a green flash; I witnessed many.
But I never acquired the skill of hoisting sails without suffering blisters, so I just observed, eyes tearing up, hearing bagpipes play Amazing Grace. I loved gazing at the Southern Cross on clear nights, Crosby Stills and Nash’s song echoing in my mind.

Due to things at home, 1992 was unexpectedly my last sail on the Mandalay, but I was ever aware of the ship. A friend on board became my penpal, keeping me informed of ship, crew, even island news. Even though I wasn’t onboard, the ship was of utmost importance.
I was heartbroken when I learned that the Fantome had been lost in Hurricane Mitch. My friend was lost with the other men on the ship. My former purser friend would tell me any tidbit she would hear from down island, but it was never enough.
I was shocked when WJBC shut down. Then elated when I learned that the Mandalay was coming back in 2012. I watched that late night as she finally passed thru the Panama Canal. I had no plans to go, I just needed to know my ship was safe.
During Covid, I’d heard she was anchored outside Grenada. I’d read how the ship was lacking upkeep. But nothing could have prepared me for the news early 2021 that this company too, had shut down. I was overwhelmed with utter despair!
DESPERATE to find some way to get the ship rescued, letters to Congress, attempts to reach people with deep pockets… nothing worked. Then I remembered. I'd never made contact with that friend on Facebook from 2012. So began my journey with Charles Kropke. It was to be a long journey. There were plans, hopes, changes, disappointment. New plans, hopes soared. Complications again, followed by more determination. I had no idea how long it would take. Regardless, I could NOT, would NOT, give up.
I don’t know why it was so important to me. I'd spent only 14 weeks walking her decks. Almost 30 years had passed.
Yet THIS was MY mission: the Mandalay could NOT just cease to be! I could still feel her under my barefeet. I could still see every part of the ship, still hear the sounds, still see the stars seemingly sway as I slept on deck. Never, even for a day since 1987, have I been without a sailors braid on my wrist.
The Mandalay HAD to be rescued and restored! Not for me; I had no plans to cruise again. Rather, my desire has always been for the ship to sail on, for Her OWN sake, and for others to have the opportunity to experience the magical adventure of sailing upon her.
The Mandalay is more than a mere ship. She’s a living energy that leaves people forever changed. I’ve been told that the ship picked me to fight for her. Perhaps so. All I know for sure is that I would NOT let her down.
Now it appears that I WILL be aboard my sweet Mandalay once she is restored!